Ask the Manure Maiden

The Land Management Guide is Here!

2008-06-11T15:15:00.000-07:00

Well, it's taken a bit of time, but finally the Land Management Guide for Horse Owners and Small-Lot Farmers has arrived!This manual covers all aspects of agricultural stewardship including manure management, pasture management, water management and even a section on regional concerns around BC. All of us at the Langley Environmental Partners Society (LEPS) are very pleased with the result and we hope you will be too.

To obtain a copy of the guide you can visit the Horse Council of BC online store at http://store.hcbc.ca/catalog/. Here you can purchase the manual for $3.95 plus shipping.

Thanks to all of you for your ongoing support to the program and to LEPS!

What is manure vermicomposting?

2007-12-03T09:44:00.000-08:00

'Vermicomposting' is the act of composting using the digestive process of earthworms. These earthworms are a specific type known as red worms, tiger worms or red wigglers (Eisenia spp.). They are more efficient than other earthworms at breaking down compost materials and when incorporated into a compost pile the pile will require less aeration. There are other advantages to composting with worms such as higher nitrogen values and the fact that worms can double their populations every four months. However, there are a few disadvantages including the intial cost of purchasing the worms and the possibility that weed seeds and pathogens may not break down as easily or at all.

The environmental conditions required for red wigglers are more sensitive than for most other earthworm species that naturally colonize the manure compost pile. Eisenia require a moisture content of about 40% since they breathe through their skin so the pile should feel like a damp wrung-out sponge. They can also survive in temperatures between 4 and 32 degrees C (39 - 90 F), but their ideal temperature is between 18 and 24 degrees C (65 - 75 F). Dewormers such as Ivermectin are deactivated up to 95% before passing through the horse digestive tract and are further deactivated when it interacts with sunlight; therefore, it will cause minimal to no harm to Eisenia.

"One pound of Eisenia (approximately 1000 worms) will eat approximately 3.5 pounds of material per week. A single horse produces about 350 pounds of manure per week. So, you will need 100 pounds of Eisenia per horse to digest each week’s amount of manure. If this manure is mixed half and half with bedding, you’ll need 200 pounds of Eisenia per horse." (Card, Anderson, and Davis; 2007) Since red wigglers cost approximately $20.00 per pound in BC this is often a cost prohibitive option. It is possible to start with as many as you can afford and slowly double the population, but care must be taken to avoid overwhelming the worms with too much compost. Start small and increase when you have a larger worm population.

For more information on worm composting see:

A.B. Card, J.V. Anderson and J.G. Davis. 2007. Vermicomposting Horse Manure. Colorado State University Extension. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/livestk/01224.html

Do I really need to compost my manure or can I spread it as is?

2007-08-03T10:17:00.000-07:00

The act of composting can be time-consuming and expensive when compared to spreading raw manure, but the extra effort will be worth it in the long run.

Raw manure is actually not an effective fertilizer source. When raw manure is spread onto pastures the nitrogen (N) content tends to volatilize and immobilize. The N in the pasture grasses will be 'sucked' up by the microbes into the compost in order for them to complete the composting process. Through the act of composting microbes recycle the nutrients they use and retain them in the compost.

Also, through spreading composted manure instead of raw manure you can protect local water resources. The run-off from raw manure can cause algal blooms in nearby streams, which depletes the stream of oxygen. As fish require oxygen to breathe they are not able to survive in this habitat. In addition, the run-off from manure piles can contaminate your drinking water supply and that of your horses' if they are located near a well.

Some of the other benefits to using composted manure instead of raw manure are:

Increases water-holding capacity of your soil

Kills parasite eggs/larvae and weed seeds

Reduces odour

Physically reduces the amount of waste produced

Reduces the cost of hauling manure off-site

Less money spent on chemical fertilizers and soil amendments

Compost is easier to handle than raw manure

Provides a great source of fertilizer for your pasture or garden.

She's done it again!

2007-06-25T10:41:00.000-07:00

Jill Ackerman has initiated a new program to recycle Haylage and Silage Wrap. She previously started a binder twine recycling program, which has now expanded to include the wrap from silage and haylage bales. This has been an on-going problem for the industry since the waste generated has not been dealt with appropriately up to this point. Most farmers only had the option of sending the plastic to their local landfill or burying it in their yard....neither of which are desirable options. Finally, farmers have a sustainable alternative thanks to Jill!

In order to ensure that this service continues, we need to do our part to make sure that the wrap is clean and dry. Jill recommends five easy steps we should follow before we deliver the wrap to the recycling facilities:

1) Cut the bag open with a method that keeps plastic clean from debris

Use a forklift to elevate the bale off the ground
Hang the plastic somewhere off the ground until after feeding
Shake the plastic to remove any excess forage, debris, manure etc.
Remove all rocks

2) Hang the plastics to dry for 1 to 2 days (need to be as dry as possible)

3) Shake out plastic again to remove any leftover debris

4) Store the plastic in a dry and convenient location

Store plastics of different colours and materials in separate containers
Tote bags, wagon racks, barn posts, and beams are potential locations
Store away from sunlight to prevent degradation

5) Deliver to local recycling agent or contact a designated collection service

There are three locations that will accept silage and haylage wrap:

CompuCycle Recycling, 3274b Third St., Cumberland, BC (250-336-8136)
Genesis Recycling Ltd., 26049 30th Ave., Aldergrove, BC (1-877-607-1117)
Simply Plastics, Vantage Rd., Tilbury Park, North Delta, BC (604-952-0898)

For more information please contact Jill Ackerman at itstwinetorecycle@yahoo.ca or Genesis Recycling at the phone number above.

Thanks Jill and happy recycling to everyone!

How do I prevent my compost from becoming too dry?

2007-06-05T10:34:00.000-07:00

As the weather heats up and we head into summer our compost piles have a tendency to dry out. In order to maintain sufficient temperature levels in the compost and ensure that the material is breaking down effectively we need to make sure that the compost has enough moisture. In ideal situations your compost should have the consistency of a damp, wrung-out sponge.

You can do the following "Squeeze Test" to determine if your compost requires watering:

Reach into the compost and grab a handful near the centre of the pile.
Squeeze the handful tightly for a couple of seconds and open your hand.
If the pile stay clumped together and does not release excess water then it is the right consistency. If it falls apart when you release your grip then it will need to be watered.

One way to ensure that the moisture content stays consistent is to water it on a regular basis. When you venture out into your gardens to water your prize begonias make sure to turn the hose on your manure pile as well. Adding a small amount of water each day is better than letting the compost get dusty and dry and then trying to re-wet it back to the 50% range. Another option is to hose down the manure and bedding while it is in the wheelbarrow before adding it to the final compost pile.

If water is being restricted in your area then you may want to set up a rainbarrel next to your composting system that you can dip into during periods of drought. Contact your local municipality for more information on subsidized rainbarrels and availability.

Can I compost with just straight horse manure?

2007-05-08T11:51:00.000-07:00

Lately we have been asked if composting will be effective if only horse manure is used. Since horse manure is very close to the ideal carbon:nitrogen ratio at 25:1 (the range is between 20:1 and 40:1) it will compost well. However, we have noticed that when people aren't including any stall bedding or paddock footing at all in their compost it becomes very wet and stratified. This discrepancy is most likely due to the wet climate that we experience on the coast. The more moisture in the compost, the higher the nitrogen levels, and the less effectively the manure will compost. Aeration is also important and when no bedding is added to the compost we find that compaction becomes more of a problem.

Generally we recommend combining small amounts of wood-pelleted bedding with each load of manure added to your compost pile. The wood pellets will absorb much of the excess moisture and provide some aeration to your composting system. If you are only adding small loads of horse manure to your compost you may want to consider adding bedding less frequently. Wood-pelleted bedding is inexpensive when used in this manner and is an excellent addition to your compost.

We have also been asked whether gravel from paddock footing is safe to go into the compost system and yes it is. It adds more aeration to the compost and allows for less compaction of the compost pile. The only thing to be mindful of is the impact that gravel may have on your manure spreader. Small particle size should pass through the spreader easily, but this is something to gauge with your own equipment. Good luck and happy composting!

Are weeds in my pasture really a problem?

2007-04-18T14:53:00.000-07:00

This is a question that Jennifer and I have been getting more and more frequently these days. Weeds in a pasture, especially weeds such as buttercup and horsetail, are a serious concern and should be dealt with as soon as possible!

Creeping buttercup (or Ranunculus repens for those science people out there) grows in acidic, boggy conditions such as what we experience on a daily basis here in the Fraser Valley. Buttercup contains toxins that will cause serious inflammation in the digestive tract. Sap from the stems can also cause blistering on the skin or mucous membranes and even around the hooves of horses. In addition, some of the other symptoms that result from the ingestion of buttercup include: mouth blisters, colic, bloody urine or diarrhea, twitching of the eyelids, loud breathing and a weak pulse. Horses have been known to consume buttercup when grass density and height are too low.

Another common weed in this region is field horsetail (Equisetum arvense), which is also found in poorly drained and acidic soils. Horsetail is especially poisonous for young horses and can cause symptoms such as: jaundice, loss of appetite, weakness, staggering gait, excitability and paralysis. Horses will also consume this when grass is in short supply and when fields have been overgrazed.

Finally, Tansy ragwort (Senecio jacobeae) is another weed that is highly prevalent in the lower mainland and southern Vancouver Island. Tansy ragwort contains liver-damaging alkaloids that can cause cells in the liver to expand and then eventually die. The symptoms of poisoning include: weakness, liver failure, high temperature, incoordination, and yellow mucous membranes.

Since there are no effective treatments for any of these plant poisonings the best mode of defense is preventative pasture management. If the pasture happens to be quite acidic (which you can determine through a simple soil test) then you should lime your fields to make them more alkaline. Also, spreading finished horse manure compost and overseeding with a good grass mixture tailored to your region will go a long way to outcompeting these nasty weeds. The more dense the grass, the less dense the weeds will be. Horses only graze weeds when there is not enough grass available in the field for them. Therefore, we need to ensure that the fields are not overgrazed and are left to rest when necessary.

See the news and events section of the website for more information on a new workshop addressing pasture management concerns. This workshop will be held on May 17th, 2007 in the Langley Firehall 6 from 7pm to 9pm.

More information on poisonous plants can be found through the British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture and Lands or the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs (MAFRA). All pictures are courtesy of the Ontario MAFRA (http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/livestock/horses/facts/poison.htm).

Do I Really Need To Cover My Compost?

2007-03-29T10:16:00.000-07:00

On many site consultations I conduct I see people who have spent the time, money and energy building fantastic compost systems only to see them left uncovered and therefore not working properly.
Covering your compost pile/system is not only required according to Waste Management regulations in most areas of our province for environmental reasons, it is necessary in order to control the moisture content of your pile/system.
The type of microorganisms you need to break down the raw materials are aerobic, that is, they need air to survive. If you allow your system to get saturated with water, all of the air space is filled with water and essentially drowns out your good "bugs".
Wet systems/piles will not compost and will begin rotting, a process involving anaerobic microorganisms, that cause odour and attract insects.
Letting the occasional rain shower hit your pile/system during drier times of years is not a bad idea as moisture is required for the composting process to occur however, letting winter go by without covering is not.
To ensure you have the right moisture content, conduct the "squeeze test" on your compost described in our Compost Management Guide located under resources on the website.
If your pile is too wet, you can correct this by aerating it (turning or adding perforated PVC pipes), adding dry material, and of course....keeping it covered!

Do shavings and manure need to be seperated for composting?

2007-03-19T10:53:00.000-07:00

After completing a number of site consultations and speaking to a lot of people in our horse community about composting, I have found that a number of people that are already composting are seperating their shavings from the manure prior to composting.
When I ask about why people are doing this, a common response is that they thought that shavings would not compost down.
Though it is true that shavings and sawdust do not compost as quickly as manure does, they will compost down eventually.
At my test site, I am able to compost shavings and manure down in as little as 3-4 weeks. The shavings are barely recognizable.
A common problem with composting with shavings is that the carbon to nitrogen ratio is not correct. As mentioned in our compost management guide, horse manure itself is the ideal ratio of 25:1, so as soon as you add shavings you throw the ratio off.
What this means is that if you are composting with shavings you will need to rebalance the C:N ratio by adding more nitrogen sources. The reason that it appears the shavings will not compost is that they can't because once all of the nitrogen is "used up" by the "bugs" in the pile, the breakdown of raw materials will slow and cease. Thereby giving the appearance that shavings don't compost.
By adding nitrogenous materials such as grass clippings into your pile/system, the composting process will fire up again and your shavings will continue to degrade.
My advice to those seperating shavings from manure is to save yourself the time and energy. Leave it all together and rebalance by adding nitrogenous materials!

Can Chicken Manure Be Added To Horse Manure Compost?

2007-03-05T16:13:00.000-08:00

Since many of us live on larger properties that have animals other than horses, I often get questions about blending manures in compost piles/systems. In this case the specific question was whether chicken manure could be mixed into the horse manure compost?
The answer is yes! Chicken manure is a great addition to horse manure compost. The manure from different animals has different characteristics from each other. Some are more complimentary than others.
Because horse manure is often low in nitrogen, especially when it has bedding with it, the addition of anything with a higher nitrogen value is beneficial. Chicken manure is an excellent example of this. While horse manure with bedding can have a carbon nitrongen ratio of 65 parts carbon to one part nitrogen, chicken manure is approximately 15 parts carbon to one part nitrogen. This gives chicken manure a significantly higher fertilizer value as it contains much more nitrogen.
The addition of chicken manure will help your compost finish faster as the "bugs" in your system will have the nitrogen they need for vigorous growth and therefore a larger and healthier population of "bugs" will be maintained.
Increasing the nitrogen in your system also makes you compost more valuable to your pastures as fertilizer. See a previous blog entry titled Checking the Fertilizer Value of Your Compost.

Spacing for PVC Pipes Used for Aeration

2007-02-28T14:11:00.000-08:00

A common question that I get is regarding the use of perforated PVC piping for aerating their compost pile. The question is, how many do you need in one pile? How should they be spaced?

The answer is that the more air you can bring to your compost, the better! At my test site I usually have pipes stacked vertically with approximately 2-3 feet between each pipe. This seems to work well. I have never experimented with using any more than that so I don't know when is too much. I have seen people use fewer with greater spacing and they do not get the results that I do in terms of the quality of degradation. I would propably not insert any more pipes than I suggest because the pile may have difficulty generating and retaining enough heat.

Adding Mountain Pine Beetle Killed Trees and Tree Ashes to Compost

2007-02-20T15:32:00.000-08:00

I was fortunate enough to be invited to speak at the Healthy Horse Seminar in Kamloops this past weekend and a few questions pertaining to regional issues came up that this Manure Maiden needed to check on before I could answer them.

The first question was regarding the addition of mountain pine beetle killed trees to their horse manure compost piles. Can these trees be added?

The answer is yes. Keep in mind that these trees should be chopped or shredded prior to being added to the pile. This is because the needles are covered with a thick, waxy coating that does not break down very well.

It is also important to keep in mind that adding pine needles to your pile can increase the pH of the pile. Not a bad thing if your soil is alkaline, but can be bad for certain plants that you may be growing. It is also a good idea to use a simple soil test to test the pH of your compost pile from time to time.

The second question, also related to this was:
Can you add the ash from buring pine beetle killed trees? Will this raise the pH?

The first answer is yes. Ash is an excellent addition to compost as it can add a number of other nutrients to your compost such as phosphorus and potassium. The recommended amount of ash to add is no more than 2 gallon buckets full for every 27 cubic feet of compost.

The answer to the second part of this question is no. Pine tree ash will not increase the pH of your compost pile as ash tends to be alkaline in nature.

Checking the Fertilizer Value of Your Compost

2007-02-13T08:15:00.000-08:00

As the tulips and daffodils begin to pop out of the ground, we are reminded that spring will soon be upon us. Once the fields dry out we will soon be able to spread all that great compost we’ve been making all winter. Before spreading however, it is important to check on the fertilizer value of your compost. That is, how much nitrogen it does or doesn’t have. It is important to make sure your compost has a decent fertilizer value otherwise the compost you spread will not fertilize your fields. While compost low in nitrogen still has many benefits being on your field such as improving soil structure, providing other micronutrients, and improving drainage, in the spring you want to give your pasture all the help it needs to grow healthy and strong. This means feeding it the nitrogen it needs.
Horse manure compost is commonly low in nitrogen. To check the amount of nitrogen in your compost, purchase a simple soil test from your local garden centre or co-op and take a sample of your compost and follow the instructions in the test kit. If you find there is little to no nitrogen in your compost you will need to add some nitrogen sources to your system/pile and let it compost for a few more weeks. Adding green materials such as grass clippings can increase the nitrogen content. If you don’t have access to “greens” consider adding alfalfa cubes, or if you are not opposed to the chemical route, you can add a bit of nitrogen fertilizer.
It is especially important to check your nitrogen levels prior to spreading on your fields because compost low in nitrogen can actually strip the soil of any nitrogen that may be present in order for the compost to finish the degradation process. Not what you want! So in preparation for spring-time spreading, get out there and test your compost’s nitrogen level to ensure a lush, green pasture for your horses.

Recycle Your Binder Twine!

2007-01-30T16:06:00.000-08:00

I just heard about a great new recycling program started on Vancouver Island where the recycling company, Compucycle, is now accepting binder twine as a recyclable material. The Mainland now also has a company accepting twine called Genesis Recycling in Aldergrove.

Way to go Jill Ackerman, genius behind this project! I never thought much about tossing the stuff myself, but when I thought about how much goes out of my barn each year it really is astounding.

Lower Mainlanders can contact Al and Doug Surtees with Genesis Recycling Ltd., 26049 30 A Ave., Aldergrove V4W 2W6, 778-549-7191 or 1-877-607-1117 . They will accept your twine at their address location above!! Check out their website.
http://www.genesisrecycling.ca/

For more information on the twine recycling program, contact Jill Ackerman at acker944@shaw.ca

Do compost systems have to be on cement?

2007-01-22T16:15:00.000-08:00

Dear Manure Maiden,

I would like to build a compost system on my farm and am wondering if it is necessary to go to the expense of pouring a cement base?

This is a common question!

While it is not necessary to have a solid base in order to produce a good quality compost, I strongly recommend having an impermeable base under your compost as this is the only way that you can ensure that your manure is not releasing leachate into the environment. If you cannot afford to pour cement at this time, be sure to build your system so that you can add it at a later date. In the mean time, be sure that your pile is covered so that no rainwater can run through it and create leachate. A solid base is not only important because of environmental concerns, it also helps you to maintain your pile neatly without doing damage to the earth in and around your pile. Driving a tractor in and out of a system can cause considerable wear and tear on bare earth, especially in the winter.

The Manure Maiden

Hogfuel in Compost

2006-12-20T10:52:00.000-08:00

Below is a question that I get quite regularly.

Dear Manure Maiden,

I have a question about paddock footing. Is it okay for pieces of hogfuel to end up in my compost pile, or do I need to separate the hogfuel from the manure before I compost?

Foiled by footing

Hogfuel, paddock footing consisting of chunks of wood, can be put into your compost pile. Keep in mind, however, that it is unlikely that it will break down very well if at all.

Hogfuel is a wood product and is therefore a carbon source for your compost. Horse manure compost often has too much carbon in it from the bedding we use and the paddock footing. If you are going to have small amount of hogfuel end up in your pile from paddock pickings, it is important to ensure that you balance the carbon nitrogen ratio so in this case you will need to make sure you are adding extra nitrogen sources to your compost pile to help break down the extra carbon.

Extra nitrogen sources can include kitchen scraps or yard trimmings.

Even if your hogfuel does not break down completely in your pile, this is not necessarily a bad thing. If you plan to use your compost on your pasture and your pasture needs to build some soil structure (most of them do) then it is not a bad thing to add this "texture" to your fields. While I would not recommend spreading old hogfuel directly on your pastures, the small amount that is interspersed in your compost will not harm the pasture and in fact will provide a medium that will promote good root structure in your grasses.

Basically you will need to decide what you want your compost to look like. If you want something that resembles dark, potting soil, then you may want to consider removing the hogfuel. If you don't mind a bit of texture then leave it in.

For more information on compost management, in particular, the carbon nitrogen ratio, check out our resources page and download the Compost Management Guide.

The Manure Maiden

Manure Questions? Ask the Manure Maiden

2006-12-19T20:15:00.000-08:00

Do you own a horse property? This is the place to ask your questions and get answers. Click on the contact information link and email your questions.