New BC Manure Maven Network!

For those of you looking for some help in areas of BC other than the Lower Mainland we have created a new Manure Maven Network.

Langley Environmental Partners Society (LEPS) educates and provides technical assistance to equestrian landowners and small-lot farmers throughout the Province through the Manure Maiden program, offering manure composting and pasture management workshops as well as site consultations for individual land owners. The program has generated a huge response and was expanded to serve all of BC in 2007. We have now created a network of 16 regional facilitators, called Manure Mavens, in 7 regions throughout BC. These regions include: Lower Mainland/Fraser Valley, Vancouver Island, Thompson Okanagan, Kootenay Rockies, Peace River, Northwest Coast, and the Cariboo Chilcotin.

These Manure Mavens will be available for general information, site consultations on private properties and workshops on manure and pasture management. Each Manure Maven has been supplied with copies of the Land Management Guide for Horse Owners and Small-Lot Farmers so if you are searching for this resource then they are the ones to call.

For more information on the Manure Maven Network and the regional facilitators please see the Manure Maven Network tab to the left of this page or contact Andrea Lawseth, Agricultural Stewardship Coordinator, at 604-352-3515 or at alawseth@tol.bc.ca.

The Land Management Guide is Here!

Well, it's taken a bit of time, but finally the Land Management Guide for Horse Owners and Small-Lot Farmers has arrived!This manual covers all aspects of agricultural stewardship including manure management, pasture management, water management and even a section on regional concerns around BC. All of us at the Langley Environmental Partners Society (LEPS) are very pleased with the result and we hope you will be too.

To obtain a copy of the guide you can visit the Horse Council of BC online store at http://store.hcbc.ca/catalog/. Here you can purchase the manual for $3.95 plus shipping.

Thanks to all of you for your ongoing support to the program and to LEPS!

What is manure vermicomposting?

'Vermicomposting' is the act of composting using the digestive process of earthworms. These earthworms are a specific type known as red worms, tiger worms or red wigglers (Eisenia spp.). They are more efficient than other earthworms at breaking down compost materials and when incorporated into a compost pile the pile will require less aeration. There are other advantages to composting with worms such as higher nitrogen values and the fact that worms can double their populations every four months. However, there are a few disadvantages including the intial cost of purchasing the worms and the possibility that weed seeds and pathogens may not break down as easily or at all.

The environmental conditions required for red wigglers are more sensitive than for most other earthworm species that naturally colonize the manure compost pile. Eisenia require a moisture content of about 40% since they breathe through their skin so the pile should feel like a damp wrung-out sponge. They can also survive in temperatures between 4 and 32 degrees C (39 - 90 F), but their ideal temperature is between 18 and 24 degrees C (65 - 75 F). Dewormers such as Ivermectin are deactivated up to 95% before passing through the horse digestive tract and are further deactivated when it interacts with sunlight; therefore, it will cause minimal to no harm to Eisenia.

"One pound of Eisenia (approximately 1000 worms) will eat approximately 3.5 pounds of material per week. A single horse produces about 350 pounds of manure per week. So, you will need 100 pounds of Eisenia per horse to digest each week’s amount of manure. If this manure is mixed half and half with bedding, you’ll need 200 pounds of Eisenia per horse." (Card, Anderson, and Davis; 2007) Since red wigglers cost approximately $20.00 per pound in BC this is often a cost prohibitive option. It is possible to start with as many as you can afford and slowly double the population, but care must be taken to avoid overwhelming the worms with too much compost. Start small and increase when you have a larger worm population.

For more information on worm composting see:

A.B. Card, J.V. Anderson and J.G. Davis. 2007. Vermicomposting Horse Manure. Colorado State University Extension. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/livestk/01224.html

Do I really need to compost my manure or can I spread it as is?

The act of composting can be time-consuming and expensive when compared to spreading raw manure, but the extra effort will be worth it in the long run.

Raw manure is actually not an effective fertilizer source. When raw manure is spread onto pastures the nitrogen (N) content tends to volatilize and immobilize. The N in the pasture grasses will be 'sucked' up by the microbes into the compost in order for them to complete the composting process. Through the act of composting microbes recycle the nutrients they use and retain them in the compost.

Also, through spreading composted manure instead of raw manure you can protect local water resources. The run-off from raw manure can cause algal blooms in nearby streams, which depletes the stream of oxygen. As fish require oxygen to breathe they are not able to survive in this habitat. In addition, the run-off from manure piles can contaminate your drinking water supply and that of your horses' if they are located near a well.

Some of the other benefits to using composted manure instead of raw manure are:

• Increases water-holding capacity of your soil


• Kills parasite eggs/larvae and weed seeds


• Reduces odour


• Physically reduces the amount of waste produced


• Reduces the cost of hauling manure off-site


• Less money spent on chemical fertilizers and soil amendments


• Compost is easier to handle than raw manure


• Provides a great source of fertilizer for your pasture or garden.

She's done it again!

Jill Ackerman has initiated a new program to recycle Haylage and Silage Wrap. She previously started a binder twine recycling program, which has now expanded to include the wrap from silage and haylage bales. This has been an on-going problem for the industry since the waste generated has not been dealt with appropriately up to this point. Most farmers only had the option of sending the plastic to their local landfill or burying it in their yard....neither of which are desirable options. Finally, farmers have a sustainable alternative thanks to Jill!

In order to ensure that this service continues, we need to do our part to make sure that the wrap is clean and dry. Jill recommends five easy steps we should follow before we deliver the wrap to the recycling facilities:

1) Cut the bag open with a method that keeps plastic clean from debris

• Use a forklift to elevate the bale off the ground
• Hang the plastic somewhere off the ground until after feeding
• Shake the plastic to remove any excess forage, debris, manure etc.
• Remove all rocks

2) Hang the plastics to dry for 1 to 2 days (need to be as dry as possible)

3) Shake out plastic again to remove any leftover debris

4) Store the plastic in a dry and convenient location

• Store plastics of different colours and materials in separate containers
• Tote bags, wagon racks, barn posts, and beams are potential locations
• Store away from sunlight to prevent degradation

5) Deliver to local recycling agent or contact a designated collection service

There are three locations that will accept silage and haylage wrap:

CompuCycle Recycling, 3274b Third St., Cumberland, BC (250-336-8136)
Genesis Recycling Ltd., 26049 30th Ave., Aldergrove, BC (1-877-607-1117)
Simply Plastics, Vantage Rd., Tilbury Park, North Delta, BC (604-952-0898)

For more information please contact Jill Ackerman at itstwinetorecycle@yahoo.ca or Genesis Recycling at the phone number above.

Thanks Jill and happy recycling to everyone!

How do I prevent my compost from becoming too dry?

As the weather heats up and we head into summer our compost piles have a tendency to dry out. In order to maintain sufficient temperature levels in the compost and ensure that the material is breaking down effectively we need to make sure that the compost has enough moisture. In ideal situations your compost should have the consistency of a damp, wrung-out sponge.

You can do the following "Squeeze Test" to determine if your compost requires watering:

1. Reach into the compost and grab a handful near the centre of the pile.
2. Squeeze the handful tightly for a couple of seconds and open your hand.
3. If the pile stay clumped together and does not release excess water then it is the right consistency. If it falls apart when you release your grip then it will need to be watered.

One way to ensure that the moisture content stays consistent is to water it on a regular basis. When you venture out into your gardens to water your prize begonias make sure to turn the hose on your manure pile as well. Adding a small amount of water each day is better than letting the compost get dusty and dry and then trying to re-wet it back to the 50% range. Another option is to hose down the manure and bedding while it is in the wheelbarrow before adding it to the final compost pile.

If water is being restricted in your area then you may want to set up a rainbarrel next to your composting system that you can dip into during periods of drought. Contact your local municipality for more information on subsidized rainbarrels and availability.

Can I compost with just straight horse manure?

Lately we have been asked if composting will be effective if only horse manure is used. Since horse manure is very close to the ideal carbon:nitrogen ratio at 25:1 (the range is between 20:1 and 40:1) it will compost well. However, we have noticed that when people aren't including any stall bedding or paddock footing at all in their compost it becomes very wet and stratified. This discrepancy is most likely due to the wet climate that we experience on the coast. The more moisture in the compost, the higher the nitrogen levels, and the less effectively the manure will compost. Aeration is also important and when no bedding is added to the compost we find that compaction becomes more of a problem.

Generally we recommend combining small amounts of wood-pelleted bedding with each load of manure added to your compost pile. The wood pellets will absorb much of the excess moisture and provide some aeration to your composting system. If you are only adding small loads of horse manure to your compost you may want to consider adding bedding less frequently. Wood-pelleted bedding is inexpensive when used in this manner and is an excellent addition to your compost.

We have also been asked whether gravel from paddock footing is safe to go into the compost system and yes it is. It adds more aeration to the compost and allows for less compaction of the compost pile. The only thing to be mindful of is the impact that gravel may have on your manure spreader. Small particle size should pass through the spreader easily, but this is something to gauge with your own equipment. Good luck and happy composting!